Victory-44

[Jeremy Iggers]

Went last night with the missus to Victory 44, expecting a quiet evening, and stumbled into a giant Grand Opening party.The place was packed with a lot of young, hip people who didn't look like they came from the neighborhood. Nothing draws a crowd like free beer, wine and munchies. The waitresses kept ferrying food from the kitchen to the buffet table, but couldn't keep up with demand. I managed to get a taste of a few of the items -strips of deep-fried fish (from their fish and chips entree, $14.95), Scotch eggs encased in sausage ($4.95), and a quarter of what is billed as the Perfect Burger (topped with sharp cheddar, bacon, and icebox pickles, $8.95 on the menu.) There's lots more on the menu that I would like to try - the Ploughman's Plate of charcuterie, cheeses and currant mostardi ($9.95); the fish boil of haddock, shrimp and pancetta ($12.95), and the crispy pork belly - brined for three days, then deep-fried and served with a crunchy vegetable salad ($14.95).
The big opening night bash was a really smart move - if Victory-44 is going to make it, it is going to have to become a destination restaurant drawing from a pretty wide area. The two previous occupants of 2203 44th Ave. N., Rix and Sauced were both wonderful places, but they both quickly joined the long list of restaurants that have struggled and closed in north Minneapolis.
Owners Erick Harcey,-former executive chef at the Nicollet Island Inn,and Ben Hiza, ex-general manager at 20.21, aren't putting all their eggs in one basket - according to Ben's blog, they are opening a new restaurant, The Kitchen in Stillwater in early July, and have plans for a third restaurant, Gas-tro-nome, a pork-centric "modern gastropub" that is supposed to open soon in Northeast Minneapolis.
Victory 44, 2203 44th Ave. N., Minneapolis, 612-588-2208. Monday - Thursday, 11 AM - 9 PM,Friday 11 AM - 10 PM,
Saturday 9 AM -10 PM, Sunday 9 AM - 2 PM.

[maryn]

Isn't "pork-centric" a cliche *yet*?

[PM]

Yeah, that seems just a bit behind...and I don't think "pork-centric" is a cliche with staying power.