Tongue in Cheek: Stephen Brown at Nick and Eddie's

[Jeremy Iggers]

I had been wanting to try the $8 bar plate at Nick and Eddie on Loring Park, and I finally had a chance yesterday - and then I got talked out of it. The nightly bar plate special was mussels in white wine with garlic croutons. I was about to add an order of french fries ($5) and a glass of Stella Artois and have a classic Belgian meal of moules et frites. But then Doug Anderson, founder and guiding spirit, struck up a conversation. He steered me towards the Tongue In Cheek (also $8). The mussels are, well, mussels, Doug told me, but the Tongue in Cheek - that's something more unusual - and one of new chef Steven Brown's recent additions to the menu. It's a plate of two fried masa cakes topped with diced beef tongue, cheek, tomatillo salsa, fresh cilantro and onion. Sort of a distant cousin of sopas or huaraches. Actually quite delicious. Brown, formerly of Rock Star, Levain, Harry's Food & Cocktails, and most recently Porter & Frye arrived at Nick and Eddie about a month and a half ago, and is taking over as chef de cuisine from Steve Vranian, who will be taking on more of the administrative responsibilities for the restaurant bar. Anderson gave me a sneak peek at Nick and Eddie's new menu, which will debut in a couple of weeks. Some of the old favorites will remain, like the burgers and hotdogs, but Brown is adding some more eclectic touches, such as a salmon tartare with lime,anise and mint; seared scallops with apricot, kalamansi lime and green curry oil; and "a stack of lettuces from a farm in Delano with a tarragon vinaigrette and goat cheese from the farmer's neighbor."

1612 Harmon Place, Minneapolis, 612-486-5800.