Mock Duck in Red Curry at Tracy's Saloon

[Jeremy Iggers]

Ever since the six course Surly beer tasting dinner at Tracy's Saloon last month, I have wanted to return and try some of chef Joseph Magidow's other improbable dishes on the menu. Today for lunch, ordered the red curry with lemon rice and papadum, served with my choice of mock duck, chicken, beef or fish. I chose the vegetarian option and was very pleased with what I got - generous quantities of textured gluten in a rich red curry sauce, lively but not too spicy, with a savory seasoned rice dotted with golden currants. Why a curry at a neighborhood bar that specializes in burgers, steaks and chicken wings? Turns out the owner, Sanjaya Wanduragala is a native of Sri Lanka - which may also explain why Kingfisher is featured as the beer of the month. But my server reports that the curry is very popular.
There's lots more on the menu I would like to try, including the linguine carbonara ($8.45), the nacho-style tater tots ($6.80), and the weekly $6.95 Sunday Supper special, which this week is going to be chicken cheese enchiladas.

Tracy's Saloon, 2207 E. Franklin, 612-332-1865.